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Today
we also stayed at the lodge and did some photographing. I have realized
that I can’t use my 60mm macro, and I have to settle with my 35-70mm,
which is not nearly as good. When I finally got my camera together, we
started looking for Golden Kalambo’es. I found a couple, and all of a
sudden a very excited Kenneth came to me. He had found a Golden Petro,
which we baptized White Lips, due to its’ thick white lips.
Unfortunately I didn’t get to take any pictures this time around. But
here are a couple of the pictures I took at the 2 Kalambo’es I found,
and Edvin later caught for Kenneth.
During
the afternoon we sailed to Mupulungu, where we were to get our passports
stamped for leaving Zambia. The stamping itself went smooth, but a
soldier of course had to try lure 10.000 out of us that you “usually”
paid at the pier. We refused to pay and explained that from Toby’s lodge
and that had been specifically told that needn’t pay a fee. In regards
to the planning of our Tanzania trip tomorrow, it has not been problem
free. Yesterday our cook told us that he wouldn’t be coming with us. As
so often before, Oscar helped us out getting us a good new decent cook
for our trip. Only problem was that her English was quite poor. Actually
she didn’t know a single word of English. The picture from the Mupulungu
harbor shows 2 of the boats that take goods and people up and down the
coast. Along with an old ferry, this is the only means of transportation
for those living along the lake.
At
five o’clock I am, as many times before now, sitting on the pier writing
my journal. The sun is on the horizon, casting a long red line through
the water. The odder is playing in the water, and I’m enjoying the waves
rolling up on the beach. Tomorrow our 14 day trip up along the east
coast of Tanzania commences. The goal is to encounter the red
Petrochromis in Mahale. First part of the trip is to Toby’s lodge in
Tanzania. Here we are to load our equipment on to motor run wooden boat,
which will be our home for our time in Tanzania. Living at the lodge
will seem like utter luxury compared to the next 14 days on the boat.,
but this is exactly what we have come to experience. I’ve been growing
skeptical though towards the red Petro. I have always laughed at Nylle’s
many pictures of sunsets, but I must admit that I have become a part of
the “sunset picture taking” species.
We
had just gotten on to the terrace when Toby spotted a local fisherman,
illegally fishing with a gillnet. He yelled at him, and headed for his
boat. Anna stayed on the pier and saw the fisherman throw his net out of
his boat and head for the village. When we caught up to him he knew that
he had been caught red-handed, and all he said was “sorry buana – I’m not
doing it again”. Toby was angry tipped his boat so he fell in the water.
He quickly swam the 30 meters to shore, still holding on to his paddle.
Afterwards his boat was tied on to the back of ours, and he was told he
could get it back in exchange for the
gillnet he had thrown in the
water. This seems harsh, but the locals know that they aren’t allowed to
fish on Toby’s private property, and if Toby’s part of the lake is
emptied for fish his lodge will be out of business.
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